Nico De Ceglia's Secret Rome

The Codex promoter and resident lends some expert knowledge for visitors to Rome.

La Cripta dei Cappuccini
Via Veneto, 27 - Rome (www.cappucciniviaveneto.it)

On the famous Via Veneto, (of La Dolce Vita fame), is the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione. While the church is worth a visit itself with some beautiful paintings, for an unusual and fascinating experience go to the right of the church and take the steps to the Crypt of the Capuchin, the famous order of friars; so called after the "cappuccio" or hood of their habit. It's a burial place that contains the bones of over 4000 friars, the bones are all positioned to form a splendid work of art along five chapels. There is a chandelier completely made from bones and many fascinating expressions of the celebration of afterlife. 'Death closes the gates of time, and opens those of eternity'; the message here is clear. Not to be missed.

F.I.S.H.
Via dei Serpenti, 16 - Rome (www.f-i-s-h.it)

If you love fish, the Fine International Seafood House is a must go. Right in the heart of Monti, one of Rome's trendiest areas right now, it offers dishes both international (sushi, sashimi, French) and traditional Italian style. Opened only a few years ago, it has quickly become a destination for a modern approach. Its warm high-tech interior design is also a pleasure for the eye. Another of my favourite spots is 'Gusto' (Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 - www.gusto.it) with the outdoor tables looking right onto the Mausoleum of Augustus. While it has been around a few years now, it can still attract a crowd for the pizzeria, restaurant or winebar. And it has a bookshop too.

Il Gelato di San Crispino
Via della Panetteria, 42 - Rome (www.ilgelatodisancrispino.com)

Many have gushed for more than a decade over the ice cream of this place as the best in Rome, Italy or the world. Track it down yourself to find out what all the fuss is about. The whole process, from selection of all natural ingredients (even cones being banned for containing colouring) to the preparation shows superb attention to detail. Try some classic flavours like the zabaione or lemon sorbet and if you prefer more unusual ones try peach, chocolate, pear and pistacchio (unusually grey because of the real pistachios). I love all of them. There are three branches but this one is the most central.

GOA Club
Via Libetta, 13 - Rome (www.myspace.com/ultrabeatout)

Perhaps the best known club in Rome - at least for an international and national line-up of super DJs. Richie Hawtin, Villalobos, DJ Hell, Carl Craig, Marco Carola, Sven Vath, Luciano, Josh Wink, Claudio Coccoluto and the club's mastermind Giancarlino are just some of the names who have appeared at the club over the last season. Thursday night's Ultrabeat is the one where you can hear these names and has been a fixture at the club for the past few years. Check out the Sundays for other famous names behind the decks. Beware of the long and messy queue to get in though (after all this is Italy amici miei...). For more exquisite underground electronica try also the always excellent Brancaleone (Via Levanna, 11 - www.brancaleone.it).

Basilica di S. Clemente
Via Labicana, 95 - Rome (www.basilicasanclemente.com)

I always find it exciting to go and discover what lies underneath modern Rome. Almost every street has ruins discovered in past excavations and this is one of the most amazing places to travel back in time. Not far from the Colosseum, excavations tell a long story. The church lies on top of an earlier fourth century basilica but also, at a lower level, on top of an even more ancient Roman house of the third century that itself lies over buildings from the first century. It is without doubt the best example of how Rome is built on the many ruins of its previous incarnations. A truly amazing experience!

Published: 1/08/2007

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